Beyond the Tourist Trail – Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer Fort holds about three thousand residents, and almost all visitors see the same four lanes of it. This day uses the other ones — the water system that keeps the fort standing, the households whose drainage is the reason it is in trouble, the quarters where people work rather than sell.

Outside the walls we visit a weaving neighbourhood, a haveli that never made the guidebooks, and finish on dunes reached by track. It is a long day and a better one.